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Started on the wiring…

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As the car is booked in for a cage in 2 weeks (and counting), I needed to start on moving the wiring from the inside to under the bonnet (to allow the cage to be fitted).
This involved taking the wiring out of the vehicle and moving it to the engine bay, I thought I would take the opportunity to start to thin it out, there were certain circuits that I would not be needing, like the central locking, the electric windows and mirrors.
It took about 4 hours to trace the wires that were not needed from the passenger door back (just did the rear section of the car today) and got the bag of wires that you can see in the photo.
The wires that were the hardest are to be found near the centre of the car, these wires control the abs sensors on the rear wheels, and the speed control thats plugged into the rear differential, BMW has tie wrapped the cables to the chassis and to get your hand up to release these tie wraps is lets just say a mission. I think to put these wires back on I would need to drop the rear subframe, as it would be simpler.

Got a new rear bumper…

rear_bumper_1Well my new M3 rear bumper arrived today, so without any holdup it went on immediately, the mark on the corner is my mucky hands, as before it arrived I was in the engine bay removing the compressor for the air con.

All I need to do is fit on the side skirts now ( I also got some side skirts with this bumper, actually 2 sets one set is M3, the other is standard) to put these on I need to drill the sills, I think this will be done after the roll cage is fitted.

Here are another 2 photos of the car as it stands at present.

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The air con is out…

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The heater box has now been removed, and I am left with a large hole in the dash board ( will have to get down to the B&Q motor-sport section to procure some aluminum to fill the hole ), as you can also see on the photo the dash is also out.
The heater system came out quite easily, I got a air-con specialist to remove the gas from the system (and put it in the ‘significant others’ car as hers was low on gas) and then started to undo the bolts that hold the air-con tubes and other air-con items to the car like the compressor, condenser etc. Next inside the engine bay remove four 10mm nuts that are just accessible from the engine side, and nothing, the large black item would not move, there is a rubber sticky gasket that goes between the two, this had to be pried apart before the heater box would come out.
Currently the water pipes that fed the heater system are open and need to be closed off, this should not be to difficult as the water must flow in a circuit.
The next job before the cage is fitted is to trim down some of the wiring, items like the electric windows, central locking, rear heated screen can all be removed, and just leave the car with the essential items, like lights and the starter circuit.

Issue with removing central locking…

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Brilliant idea of mine, to remove the central locking from the car, only when I had done this I realised the small issue of not being able to lock the petrol cap (works off the central locking)
I looked on realoem to see if there was the possibility of getting a petrol cap with a key for my car, I struck gold, you can, and it can be matched to your key, so when it arrived it was a simple (30 seconds) to remove the old one and put on the new one, my petrol is secure again.

Stripping will it never end…

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It looks like the light is at the end of the tunnel (its killing my knees on the cold metal) I removed the final bit of the sound deadening this morning, and cleaned up the floor, to remove the residue.
Also started to remove the head lining and the foam, material stuff thats stuck on the roof, tried to just pull it off but you just get fingers full of fluff (not good) so plan ‘B’ was brought in, try and use the same stuff that was working wonders on the bitumen residue, that failed, so I will be looking at other methods to remove this part.
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Got a rear bumper…

rear_bumper_1Well my luck was in on ebay, I won a rear bumper for £46 and the people I won it from are a bodyshop, so for an extra £60 its being sprayed the correct colour. This will take a couple of weeks, when its being painted and send down, I will fit it and put the photos on here of what it looks like on the car, but in the time between this happening here is a photo of the bumper before being painted.

Yet more stripping…

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Today I removed some of the residue that was left behind when I removed the sound deadening material.
Some people said use white spirits, some said petrol, what I used was some specialized liquid that removed the tar based substance. Spray it on wait 5 minutes and then wipe it off, it took a couple of goes for some parts but most of it is off.
I also removed the dash to see what was behind and how simple it would be to remove the air conditioning unit thats behind the dash.
I still have to do the rear of the car, there is some sound deadening on the rear shelf and in the boot that will be removed.
I have a set of side skirts ready to go on (from a weight point of view they should probably stay off but I think the car has to also look nice, so I am currently also looking for a rear bumper (m-tech style) to replace the existing one.
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Stripping continues…

strip1Today I started to remove the sound deadening material that is all over the car (its like a tar/bitumen, sticky panel, and helps to make the panels not resonate)<

I went outside at about 9.30 to start the job after some research on the internet, some people just hit it with hammers, and chisel it off, others use dry ice, but the majority of people seam to use some form of heat gun.

Problem number one I do not own a heat gun, and buying one to be used once was not high on my priorities, so the girlfriends hair dryer, a wooden spatular from the kitchen draw and off we go.

The first panel I attacked was the passenger side floor, it took me about 4 hours to clear one part, it was slow progress, looking at the time and the amount I needed to do I was thinking it would take me about 2 days to get it out.

But the next panel was under the rear seats, this just fell off with a little heat and persuasion, so I was back in with a chance to do this in one day (depending on light)

Drivers side footwell was next and this was in the same state as the rear seats, it came away with ease, and only tool me 2 hours to do the footwell.

I still have a couple of little panels to do on the rear shelf and some in the boot, but I am generally pleased with progress made today, even though my hands hurt.

Next step is to remove the residue of the sound deadening panels, I am going to try autoglym tar remover first, and then move on to the white spirits etc, but this will be next time.

Side on photo

newbumper5Well the list of items is going down slowly, I still need to buy the brakes, suspension and get a cage fitted.

For the cage, I think it will be a custom cage, its just getting the right person to fit it, custom cages can fit it themselves, but there are other options.

To get the cage in the car, the windscreen needs to be removed, and as its got a chip on the top (near the roof) I think it will break when removed, also with me removing the heating system, I think a heated windscreen will be fitted, this will give a facility to clear the screen and also save weight from the removal of the heating system.

A change on the front

newbumper3The new bumper is fitted, I brought it from ebay a couple of weeks ago, and had good luck that it was painted white.

Took about 1 hour to fit, and makes the front of the car look a lot better, don’t know if its lighter than the old standard one, but I like it.

Also continued to strip the interior, with the glove box, under dash parts and the wiring for the stereo being removed, also started to remove the headlining.